Judapest sounds much better, doesn't it? Well, it's Jewish Warsaw I was interested in.
Pictures up, slideshow here. Sorry, didn't separate the newly built section with its high rising glassy towers from the remnant of the ghetto and the last surviving synagogue. It shouldn't be a problem. Why?
Upon watching movies like the Pianist one can easily think that's exaggeration! If you can recall the scene when Brody stumbles around in an absolutely devastated neighborhood... you remember... at 00:58-59 of this trailer Now, that was actually the closest one could depict Warsaw at the end of the war. No, I have seen pictures and documentaries before, but to see that in real life through the present city planning is radically different. Almost an entire city was demolished... it really looked like Carthage. I strongly recommend a full afternoon walk as I did to get the taste of its magnitude and to connect it with picture viewing then. If you see bricks, buildings that show the rectangular shapes which give away their age... it's solemn to reach out and touch what was once the wall of the Ghetto, the old factory and be amazed how much those inanimate construction materials have seen.
The Soviets built some in order to arouse gratitude, with the famous clock tower and museum complex bearing Stalin's megalomaniac egoism. I happened to like its gloomy rule over the very non-traditional downtown area.
But most of those Soviet buildings are trash and now these skyscrapers are taking over the city. You could never do such a thing to downtown Prague, Krakow or Budapest, it would be smashing the grace for good. But if you have something that much destroyed you've got room to play around. I kind a love Berlin for the exact same reason. Potsdamer Platz is an ecstatic view day/night.
Now, having explained why the new buildings are very much historians of the old, let's talk about the progressive, cool Jewish initiatives I encountered. Hehe. Gosh, I was looking hard, but one needs to do her homework better, don't read about the history/places only at the airport, minutes prior to setting out... Thus there wasn't anyone I could ask, the young gatekeeper at the synagogue I didn't dare for fear of the rabbi sitting next to him. Don't imagine a Darvas, I plead with you.
But I prayed a lot and the spiritual environment brought the inherently sicklish character of Eastern Europe even more alive. You didn't have to toil hard to feel at home at this depressed, competing, youth-losing environment. The proverbial Polish-Hungarian comradery is tangible in the air. Economic growth - still poverty. Western prospect - Eastern European thinking. Beautiful people - terribly sad faces. Intellect - inability to break through. Creativity - power of conformism. Old pattern - confronting younger generation. Low pay - UK plumbing. Etc...
I have yet to see the place and people either Jewish or not to show a way forward in this setting (in Poland). shadai and the JP crew together with Marom (for lack of knowing other initiatives well enough, I would mention only these two of the Jewish ones)provide a venue for a cultural (religious) identity in our present setting, with an understanding of the past, but not feeding exclusively from its pain and pointing towards the future we are building right now.
It is good!
Hope there is sth similar happening in Warsaw as well. I guess this generation that leaves in far greater numbers than during any other immigration waves to the New World should stay and look up and ahead to find the way forward. Leaving everything behind as most of them do won't help neither the individual nor the country.
On a positive note, their Purim poster was very cool at the synagogue. Next time I'll ask the young guy, no matter the rabbi.
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